The Sands of San Sebastián
San Sebastián is not an easy place to get to. We contemplated even going for weeks because there were no high-speed trains or easy transport to get there (we have grown used to and fond of the Spanish high-speed rail). Even after we decided to go…we almost didn’t make it (the full story can be found on Overcoming Challenges). But when we finally made it there, boy, were we glad that we did.
We had it from multiple authorities that San Sebastian was a great place to visit, and with a little persistence we are happy to confirm that it indeed is worth the hassle.
San Sebastian is a town on the northern coast of Spain. It is situated within Basque country which is a very distinct and independent region in Spain. It is a perfect mix of beach and mountains, very akin to the Northern California coast. La Concha is the massive main beach on the west side of town, and on the other side of the river (within very close proximity) is Gros, which has its own beach (Zurriola). We stayed in Gros which has a surfer vibe akin to Ericeira, Portugal or Santa Cruz, CA.
Visiting San Sebastian in November wasn’t the optimal time to visit, it is definitely a summer beach resort town. In fact many places close during the off season so we had to navigate that amongst a bit of rain and cloudy weather. Ultimately none of this dampened our experience and we would wholeheartedly recommend a visit, any time of year.
Some Highlights
The Food: San Sebastian is home to the most Michelin star restaurants per capita in Europe. So what did we do…. Naturally, we ate doner kebabs two nights in a row at the local place below our accommodations. How could you not when every time you opened the window you were greeted with the delectable smell of kebabs. They were so fucking good! We have had kebabs since and nothing compares to this place. No shame.
San Sebastian also has their own form of tapas called Pintxos. I would argue they are the best form of tapas we had in Spain. There were many more unique and delicious options, many of which were seafood forward (we had urchin and squid, well ryan had the latter…). There were also many more non-fried options which was also great.
Walkability: There were very few cars on the road. We were quite taken aback. We joked that cars ceased to exist because it was a perfect walking utopia. Everything was very close and compact enough that we suspect not many people needed cars. We didn’t even have to take public transit anywhere since the city is so walkable. There are definitely further places that we probably would have needed transit or a car to get to had we gone in the busy season but for this trip, we could walk everywhere we needed.
The Beaches: We spent a lot of time sitting at both beaches. La Concha was massive and had some sand artists creating beautiful works that would wash away with the tides. Zurriola beach had surfers galore and offered some great wave watching. Between both beaches ran the Urumea river. The mouth of the river flowed into the ocean and the height of the river ebbed and flowed with the tides. During high tide the oceans waves crashed into the river flow. During low tide the river barely made it to the ocean.
We missed a few things because of the time of year (closed or unfeasible) but we definitely want to make a return trip during more mild weather!
Quick Tips
San Sebastián has two names. Donostia and San Sebastián. Most people use them interchangeably as Donostia is the Basque name for the city. Basque country has its own identity, language, and culture that is independent from Spain.
Make sure you are looking up Donostia /San Sebastián and not San Sebastian de los Reyes. We realized only after the fact that our weather app was set to San Sebastian de los Reyes (a town just outside Madrid) and not Donostia/San Sebastián, big difference. Just double check!
Honestly this article offers a great overview of San Sebastian history, culture, and things to do.