Incomparable Lisbon
Fair warning, this is going to be a long post because we came away with so. much. from Lisbon. Lisbon was an incomparable city. We often compare cities to other places we’ve visited but Lisbon was wholly unique and unlike any place we have been. Here’s why.
First, we got to Lisbon via BlaBlaCar which is a fancy way of hitchhiking. It did not disappoint. Helena was commuting from Ericeira to Lisbon for work and we hitched a ride to Lisbon with her through the app. We got to meet an awesome person and hear all about her and her recommendations for Lisbon. The experience was awesome!
We had no idea what to expect weather wise when we got to Lisbon. As we approached Lisbon the radar looked straight like a hurricane was about to hit and our weather apps had all sorts of wind and weather warnings.
We once heard there is no such thing as bad weather, just badly dressed people (paraphrasing) so we were determined not to let the weather stop us for the most part. All in all we got about 24 hours of perfect weather (but not all at once) while T he rest was a mix of all day showers, hellish wind (we even lost power for a hot minute) and something in between.
What we learned: don’t let the weather stop you. There was a time or two we changed our plans because of actual rain, or the threat of rain broadcasted via mass Portuguese weather text that we thankfully actually received, or the elderly taxi driver ominously warning us to get home ASAP because the weather was going to be bad. There were also other times we decided to “brave” the rain and it wound up not even raining (and was delightfully sunny). Just be prepared for whatever weather might come, or be flexible enough to not care what happens. We were both and it made for a delightful visit to Lisbon.
Some highlights and recommendations:
Our trip to Belém. As part of about 6 hours of our good weather periods we took a trip to the east side of town, to an area called Belem. Highlights of the area include Pastéis de Belém (the cities, and worlds, most famous stop for pastel de nata) and while not technically in Belem we also saw the MAAT, Padrão dos Descobrimentos, and other sights via the waterfront promenade.
The Monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora. We came across this smaller unassuming monastery on our way to another sight and for 5€ each decided to pop in because of their advertised panoramic 360 degree views. After a quick tour of some of the religious relics we began the winding path up to the top of the Monastery. The rooftop views did not disappoint. They wound up being some of the best views we had all week, even with the cloudy and misty afternoon.
Where we stayed. Everything about it was great. The Alfama area in general is such a charming area (albeit a tad touristy) but the place we stayed was equally charming. Small but had everything and was perfectly cozy for our purposes.
Onda Cocktail Bar. This bar is worth its own shoutout. We have been all over and always try good to great cocktail bars. Aviary in Chicago, Dead Rabbit in NYC, and Smugglers Cove in San Fran come to mind as great cocktail experiences we have had. Maybe it was partly because we were the only people in Onda (we visited right as the Portuguese gov’t sent their ominous weather warning text), but you could tell it was going to be a great experience regardless. The two guys that were waiting on us + making the cocktails were some of the best bartenders we have ever met. Next level. The drinks they prepared were totally unique and delightful. They also gave us some free tasters of infused liquors, drinks we didn’t get to order (even though we had 3 each) and even a sneak peek at the newest menu addition. Visit them and the bar if you can.
Some takeaways:
The Food. The quality, variety, and value of the food in Lisbon was exceptional. It was obvious how much pride they take in their food culture here. Definitely a foodie city.
The juxtaposition. It is hard to explain some of the charm of Lisbon. It is a city older than Rome and in some places, it shows. There are places you 100% feel like you are in a developing city that lacks basic modernities. Then you turn the corner and have a huge modern market. Every street offered a different juxtaposition. That was the charm and beauty. Lisbon has found a way to build upon the ancient charm rather than bulldoze it.
The hills/steps/stairs are not to be underestimated. Lisbon is notorious for being a very hilly city with steep inclines. One evening we took a Bolt to one of the highest points in the city and proceeded to take about 1,000 stairs to get back down. Imagine if we had done it the opposite way. No thank you. Steps and hills are unavoidable but planning accordingly can make them a bit more manageable.
Take the ferry. We have made it a point to take ferries for the heck of it sometimes. One time in NYC we took the Staten Island Ferry to Staten Island only to immediately turn around and run to catch the ferry back, just to take in the views. This time in particular we took the ferry from Lisbon to Cacilhas where we got the most beautiful views of Lisbon from across the river and the sunset in particular was fantastic.
